Koji and how it can impact the future of waste

Koji is arguably the king of fermentation. Chefs and home cooks alike are utilising it in kitchens across the world. Rising to prominence within the popular Western culinary sphere roughly a decade ago, koji is now used in kitchens with such frequency that naturally some chefs reject the notion of it altogether. Breaking down what’s happening behind the koji white-root network known as mycelium can feel overwhelming from any perspective. Confusing terminology, grasping of new concepts and processes, combined with the lingering ultimate fear that as a cook that you might make someone unwell understandably makes koji less approachable - something that should be left to the scientists.

Over the past couple of years I’ve tried to pull the curtain for myself on some of the sensory wonders koji provides us. It’s important to inform newcomers of its make-up, history, and versatility where both sustainability and flavour are concerned. Hopefully after reading this any doubts or concerns held by koji deniers will also be alleviated.

Koji is a fungus that flourishes when inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae spores on particular products, also known as substrates. Traditionally these substrates have been either barley or rice. They work as hosts for the spores because they contain the requirements to feed koji’s enzymes. Simply put, this is placing the koji “seeds” in an environment that’s suitable in order for them to develop. Given the appropriate environmental conditions, these enzymes act as drivers for biological reactions, allowing change to occur within the organisms in a variety of very specific manners.

Depending on what’s been inoculated, initially there’s a floral and fruity aroma released. Proceeding this, aroma may change slightly as visible little white branches begin to form, creating a blanket of individual small hyphae, cogs within a larger interconnected mycelium “highway”. At the end of the process we have a product that looks like a raft of small, fluffy, white hairs grown over the substrate still generating a pleasant smell. This is achieved through the effort of the naturally occurring, hard-working enzymes that break down the starches, proteins and fats into their simpler forms. The chef and eater are left with a sometimes visually stunning and almost always delicious transformation. If fermentation is another utility within the kitchen space, koji is the sword in the stone.

From an historical perspective, Koji is a mold that was domesticated several thousands of years ago. Koji is the Japanese-based product of this particular ferment but firm discussions still ensue about it’s earlier origins and forms from and within other mainland Asian cultures. The delicious umami transformation that occurs when koji is successfully grown is a key contributor to the flavour profile we identify with Japanese food and drink. Soy sauce, miso, sake, dashi are all things that are derivatives of koji in one form or another and contain strong elements of umami.

Umami is recognised as a savoury taste, being one of the five key basic tastes that now contributes to our palate “map”. When compared to sweet, sour, bitter, salty — umami produces a tongue-coating, mouth watering sensation contributing what some describe as a ‘meatiness’ to the overall flavour. When translated from Japanese to English it means “delicious taste”. From a western food perspective the flavour umami is associated with higher quality cured meats, seafood and cheeses. Think Parmigiano cheese or super ripe tomatoes.

Koji is bridging the gap between cultures through the flavour it produces in foods and beverages. It’s usefulness not only preserves but enhances products. Jeremy Umansky is an innovator and koji-thusiast based out of the United States. In his recent book ‘KOJI Alchemy’ he provides an extensive outlook behind this idea alongside several of his comprehensive methodologies in trying to achieve a better way to approach koji. Umansky stands on the shoulders of the giants of Japanese koji traditions whilst breaking some of those traditional rules in his search. Excess produced by any kitchen can be saved and transformed by the enzymatic powers of the right blend of koji and salt. It’s that simple. By creating stable environments where the right cultures are developing and dominating other, less-desirable cultures we are empowered now and in the future.

Currently food waste is a huge problem within Australia costing the economy around $20 billion per year, 7.3 million tonnes or 300kg per person and accounting for more than 5% of our greenhouse gas emissions. On a global scale this magnitude is amplified with 30% of the total food produced for human consumption in the world going to waste and contributing to 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. If we were able to scale-up and fully utilise the natural power of koji on a global scale would these numbers be impacted? Could we stabilise, re-purpose and re-monetise items that were once considered waste? This chef thinks so.

Dive into some of Jeremy Umansky’s insights here:

If you any insights, questions or feedback regarding my writing please contact me via Instagram @sambartlettroylance

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